10 Tips for Your First Indoor Climb
Indoor climbing can be a very rewarding experience. A few benefits of joining an indoor climbing gym include sense of community, development of important fundamentals, and great exercise!
Type of Indoor Climbing
No, it’s not all the same!
Indoor climbing generally falls into three main categories, top roping, sport (lead), and bouldering. Each category has its own characteristics:
Top Roping: The climbing you see pictured here is top rope climbing. The rope is anchored above and belayed either manually (by a person) or automatically (by a machine) below. Belaying is simply when a person or machine maintains consistent tension to the rope so you are supported in the event of a fall. Your routes usually follow color coded “holds”( fake rocks) which have ratings but more on that later.
Sport (Lead) Climbing: In the case of indoor climbing, carabiners (locking clip used for climbing) are connected to pre-placed bolts on the wall. As you ascend the wall, you clip into the carabiners. These catch you in the event of a fall called a “whipper” in which you fall down to the last clipped carabiner . This method is usually more common among advanced routes in the gym.
Bouldering: Bouldering is the fastest growing form of indoor climbing in North America. Using spotters and crash pads (thick pads placed below the climber) instead of ropes, climbers traverse walls which are usually no more than 20 feet high. This category is focused on development of difficult transitions and techniques made in the safety of a short drop.
Know Which Gear You Need
Ask friends if they have any climbing gear - if not, you can also pay to rent a harness and shoes. The shoes will likely not be comfortable as the shoe is tight and squishes the toes to fit into tight holds. A chalk bag is also nice to have and can usually be rented at the gym. If you become a regular, be sure to buy your own gear - everything in a standard “starter kit” (harness, shoes, chalk bag and chalk) should total no more than ~$150. This will save you from spending more on low quality rental gear down the line.
In the case of your first climb, review climbing gyms to find the best bang for buck for rentals and climbing time. From my experience, shoes are ~$5, harness is ~$5, and 1.5-2 hours climb time is ~$20.
Join a Climbing Community
While your initial climb can be intimidating, it shouldn’t be! Climbing culture is full of exciting traditions and people. Learning with others is an ideal way to pick up the sport intuitively and create community through growth and competition. Climbers are exceptionally laid back and open to new members so look around for communities if you wish to find a mentor or two along your journey. Moreover, seasoned climbers may have extra gear such as harnesses, shoes, and chalk bags.
Remember: Climbing Gyms are Safe
Do not let the risk of injury hold you back. Indoor climbing is actually very safe when proper precautions are taken. With the exception of a manual or automatic belay issue (which rarely ever happens) top rope climbing is actually way safer than most workouts. Some people do sprain ankles and such while bouldering but this is usually self induced from an improper landing on crash pads. The main lesson here? Take the proper precautions and climb on!
Climb at a Suitable Difficulty
Have you ever seen photos of climbing gyms with the fake rocks all over the walls in what seem to be random colors? The rocks are actually color coded for different climbing routes on the walls - each have different levels of difficulty. Paths (for top rope) are rated on a scale called the Yosemite Decimal System (YDS) which runs from 5 to 5.15 (the higher, the more difficult).
For bouldering (the <20ft walls which require no ropes) there is a slightly different scale. The V-scale (V0-V16) grading system used for bouldering in north america, gauges difficulty based on specific routes called “problems”.
It’s important to keep an eye out for the signs below each path and evaluate difficulty before starting up the wall. Remember: the difficulty is assigned to a specific colored rock so, if you want to stay true to that difficulty rating, be sure to only use that color when you’re scaling the wall and avoid using holds in other colors. Still, if this is your first time ever climbing, I’d recommend you just enjoy yourself and use a number of colors to successfully climb the wall - you can worry about sticking to a single route later.
Don’t Look Down
No need to look down, you’re only going up! This is a common beginner mistake for those concerned with heights. Focus on strategically approaching each hold and next thing you know, you’ll be on the top.
For beginners, sometimes the best thing to do is turn off your thoughts and let intuition do the work - allow the mind to enter that “flow state” and just take the trip one hold at at time.
Climbing Requires Technique
A few technique tips for beginners:
Remember to use your legs: It can be easy to overcompensate with your upper body but this is an easy way to tire yourself out when endurance is the name of the game.
Don’t over-grip: When gripping holds, use just enough grip to stay on the wall - holding on to the plastic too tight will wear our your grip strength and consequently lead to early exhaustion.
Keep your forearms straight while on holds: Bending the arms is exhausting and causes lactic acid buildup in the forearms.
Lean back: When you’re struggling with a tough section, it can be helpful to lean back and use the rope to your advantage when making that big stretch.
Take breaks: Don’t be a hero! Be sure to allow proper rest between climbs. There’s no point in starting another route when you’re completely gassed.
Learn How to Use Manual and Automatic Belays
We don’t always want to wait for someone to manually belay for us. Moreover, manual belay requires a certification of which your climbing group may have. Luckily, almost all climbing gyms have automatic belay systems seen in this photo. These are very useful for for independent runs when we don’t want to wait for (or do not have) a manual belay partner.
Manual belay: A certified individual will hold the ropes and support your climb. Communication is key.
Automatic belay: A belay machine will automatically lower you down once you’ve pushed off the wall and put your full weight into the harness.
Bring Snacks and Water
2-4 hour climbing sessions can be grueling for a beginner - most gyms won’t bother you about a cliff bar as long as you are discreet. Bring plenty of water and healthy snacks to avoid cramps and maintain stamina for the entire climb!
If you need a few ideas, try these snacks:
Bananas
Sliced Apples
Cheese Sticks
Safety and Etiquette
You’ll also be coached through orientation on proper safety and etiquette but here are a few tips:
Be sure to properly secure and check your ropes before climbing, the automatic belay can be tricky at times.
Never walk under a climber who’s on the wall - it does not matter if they are on a top rope climb and well toward the top. Look left, right, up down. If someone falls on you, it’s your fault (not theirs).
Wear shoes/slides between climbs! The gym is not a community pool - keep it classy.
Don’t clog routes when the gym is busy. If you're going to climb a route, get psyched and go for it - then get out of the way for other climbers to try.
Don’t overexert on your first visit. Have an honest conversation with yourself and understand you may be recruiting muscles you’ve rarely used before. Pushing too quickly can cause serious injury.
